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2016年11月4日星期五

Baselworld 2014 Quick Hits - Rolex's New Daytona

Last month's Baselworld 2014 Watch and Jewelry Show was the highlight of the new model year for the luxury watch industry. While the curtain fell on Basel weeks ago, the sheer scale of the event, which featured over 1,500 exhibitors, means that many worthy debuts remain to be discussed.
Rolex, which skips the early season SIHH trade show and exhibits exclusively at Baselworld, greeted visitors with new models of chronograph watches for men and diamond watches for women. The Geneva powerhouse placed special emphasis on a striking new model within its Oyster series of water resistant timepieces: the second-ever platinum Cosmograph Daytona.

The new diamond-studded Cosmograph Daytona is a bold and flamboyant rogue among chronograph watches for men . While the Daytona's motorsports heritage tends to conflict with the pageantry and delicate glamor of cut stone decoration, the new Cosmograph proves that sacred cows make outstanding leather.

Rolex's extrovert statement starts with the 950-grade platinum case from 2013's Cosmograph Daytona 50th Anniversary model, then Rolex ads 437 diamonds to the dial. It is, to use the manufacture's chosen word, “paved” with diamonds. But Rolex didn't draw the line at the dial's edge. No, Rolex continued to “pave” the way with 87 additional baguette-cut diamonds set in a radial orientation around the bezel.

Thoughtful details abound on Rolex's unapologetically audacious debutant. Blue – a color often associated with platinum watches from top houses, is used on the sub-dials, all hands, and the borders of the hour indexes to provide contrast and an upscale accent. The crown features the traditional “secret handshake” of Rolex platinum watches; of the three dots beneath the Rolex logo, the center dot is undersized compared to the flanking marks. As with all Rolex watches that employ precious gems, the diamonds on the new Daytona are optically scanned and analyzed on an individual basis to assure purity and authenticity.


The new Cosmograph continues to utilize one of the finest movements available in chronograph watches for men: the caliber 4130. A true in-house movement, the 4130 is the successor to the well-known and long-running Zenith El-Primero that powered the Daytona from the 1980s until the early 2000s. The movement combines a superior 72-hour power reserve with automatic winding, smooth vertical clutch chronograph engagement, a crisp column-wheel function selector, and COSC chronometer certification.
Among watchmakers, Rolex is a point of reference. Among chronograph watches for men, the Rolex Daytona is a perennial style and engineering leader. The newfound union of the Cosmograph Daytona and high fashion can be seen as a shot across the bow of high-end playboy favorites such as the Hublot Big Bang, the Breitling Navitimer, and – especially – the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore.
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